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  • Fahad Bin Zahid

Hajj Al Tamattu Episode 8: Muzdalifah

Just after the sunset we set off for Muzdalifah from Arafat. Train station was just 5-10 mins walk from Arafat. Muzadaifah is an huge area where you need to spend a night under open sky. We thought this would be easy. But, the hardest part was yet to come.


Million Hajjis were moving towards Muzdalifah. Some by bus, some by walking and some, like us were to take the train. To accommodate enough people on the train platform, and as small number of people in one group started to board the train, we had to stop after every 50-100m. This created a massive queue from the platform up to the boundaries of Arafat. We waited around 3-4 hours to reach train stations. People started throwing up, collapsing due to tiredness, exhaustion, sleeplessness. The waiting was difficult for all of us , specially woman , elderly people. We were standing on our feet waiting eagerly and continued chanting Talbiyah. Talbiyah softens the heart, gives strength, takes away pain. Ambulance started piling up, carried away the people who collapsed, to hospitals. Finally, when we boarded the train, I felt a sense of relief.



When we reached Muzdalifah, we found there were people there already and hardly any place for two of us to occupy. We walked straight to an area where there were Three Malaysian/Singaporean women and one man lying. We sat down in one place as we could not stand anymore. The man in that place started waving his hand, shaking his head and saying 'HARAM, HARAM'. I realised there were three woman lying there and me being there appeared impolite.


By this time we got separated from our group. I asked my wife to wait while I started looking for an empty place where we could squeeze in. To my utter disappointment I could not find any single empty area. Time was running out. We had to collect stones from Muzdalifah for the next day and the most important thing was we needed to pray our Magrib and Isha.


I went back to my wife and found her sitting in the same place. I felt sad for her. I sat there momentarily, cleared my head. I said to my wife that we needed to sleep even if this was for 1-2 hours only, but there were absolutely no place to lie down there. I decided to leave that place we occupied as this was creating lots of inconvenience for those four people and we are not supposed to cause inconvenience to others in Hajj.


I took out my phone and searched muzadalifah to see how large the area is. To my surprise I saw the area was indeed quite large and we were just standing at the corner of one side. So we started walking. Finally we reached a place under a huge flyover where there were spaces. We took out our mattress and rested on it. Just when I thought we are done, I realised my phone was missing from my Ihram pocket. My heart sank.


I had everything in there my ticket, ID, contact etc. My wife asked me to be calm and start saying 'la ilaha illa anta subhanaka inni kuntu minaz-zalimin". This was the dua Prophet Yunus read when he was swallowed by whale. We all know the story. I sat on the mattress blank, not knowing what to do or expect. My wife with her phone started to see of there was a way to connect to my phone. She called few times with no answer. I went up and followed the path I used to earlier to search for my phone. there were thousands of people walking there so the chance of finding it was close to zero. After 20-30 mins I returned and realised I was lost. I forgot the place where I left my wife and I had no phone. I felt like crying.


Now I began searching for my wife , rather than phone this time. I felt really alone though there were million of people around me. I shouted out my wife's name few times. it all went in vain.


I after walking around the place few times I suddenly noticed my wife and my heart filled with joy. I went to her, she was still trying to download apps which might help. At this point , I realised my phone is gone forever and started thinking alternate plan. Clearly, my head was not in the right place. I asked my wife once again for the last time to call on my phone. Allhu Akbar, Subhanallah, Alhamdulillah , someone picked up the call, He said he was standing at a certain place and waving his hand. I immediately saw him and ran to him. I hugged him out of joy , immense relief and kissed his forehead. The man said that his father who was an elderly man found my phone and kept this with him. I prayed for them. I read somewhere on the judgement day , Allah will look for these kind simple events to forgive his servants. I prayed for them from the bottom of my heart and if Allah wishes there sins will be forgiven inshAllah. May Allah accept their Hajj and ours.


I went back and realised we had three immediate things to do. One, use toilet, make wudu, pray and then collect stones.


First my wife went and I waited for her. I asked her to set a landmark so that she does not get lost like myself. We were not sitting very far from toilets anyway. When she returned I went to one of the main toilets. I thought I would take a quick shower. As soon as I entered I felt hot steams on my face. The toilets were overflowing from one broken hot tap. I was only able to perform wudu and left immediately after that.


After praying Magrib and Isha together, I realised I was extremely thirsty and we almost used all our water bottles we brought back from Muzdalifah. Someone told me and there were trucks with water at the eastern side. I left my wife and began searching for the place. When I reached there, I was struck with horror. People were almost fighting for water bottles. Those who were tall and strong were able to grab bunch of bottles for them. I managed to get two water bottles for me and my wife. When I was returning, one man reached out to me and asked if I could give him a bottle as I had two. I stopped for a moment. This was hard. I realised Allah was testing me in every step, I need to pass these tests for my Hajj to be accepted. I looked at him and then looked behind me, I found one huge guy coming towards my way with a large carton of bottles on his shoulder. I asked if he could please give the man a water bottle. He did not hesitate and immediately gave him one.


There were few others small toilets at the very back similar to the ones in Mina and Arafat. There were places for Wudu as well. Finally I cleaned myself , performed wudu.


We ate dinner we were provided when we were in Arafat. Then, it was the time to collect stone for the next day to throw at devil. The stones had to be small in size and around 70-80 in numbers. Fortunately, there was a Bangladeshi Hajj guide who was lying just beside us in Muzdalifah , he gave us lots useful tip.


We slept around 2-3 hours in Muzdalifah. This was absolutely crucial to prepare for the next day which is throwing stones in Jamarah. The Hajji (Hajj guide) who was beside me woke me up. We performed Fajar Salah with others in congregation and packed out bag to leave for train station. We left many things behind as things were getting heavier. Alhamdulillah it was not that crowded like previous night as we set off early. But still we had to wait around an hour (probably more) in the queue. We were told we should leave the boundaries of muzdalifah little before sunrise when we can start seeing light in the sky and must not stay there until sunrise, it will be against sunnah. Alhamdulillah thats what we did and set out for Mina by taking the train.





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